This is intended to be a live document giving the reader information about my current collections together with projects underway and a couple that may get resurrected. It will be updated periodically.
PROJECTS (All 6mm apart from Naval and Air)
9. WW2:
COLLECTIONS
Current
1. Ancients:
Early Imperial Roman v Ancient Britons campaign. Based on the Roman invasion of Britain in 43AD.
Next Battle: Attack on Mona
Early Imperial Roman v Ancient Britons campaign. Based on the Roman invasion of Britain in 43AD.
Next Battle: Attack on Mona
2. Ancients:
2nd Punic War - play historical battles
Next Battle: Trebia 218 BC
3. ECW:
Play historical battles.
Next Battle: Braddock Down - 19th January 1643.
Play historical battles.
Next Battle: Braddock Down - 19th January 1643.
4. Napoleonic:
Peninsular War playing all the notable actions from 1808 in chronological order.
Next Battle: Bussaco 27th September 1810
5. Napoleonic:
Fictional campaign as a means of bringing into action all the Napoleonic forces I own and have
painted.
Next Battle: Map moves to be completed
6. ACW:
Historical scenarios.
Next Battle: TBC
7. Pony Wars:
7. Pony Wars:
Warfare in the Wild West
8. Colonial:
Zulu Wars 1879.
Next Battle: Rorke's Drift 22nd - 23rd January 1879.
Zulu Wars 1879.
Next Battle: Rorke's Drift 22nd - 23rd January 1879.
9. WW2:
N. Africa & Med - Historical and fictional scenarios
Next Battle: TBC
10. WW2:
Scenarios from Rapid Fire Op Market Garden book with intention of fighting entire
operation as a campaign when appropriate forces have been painted.
Next Battle: Groesbeek Heights (US Paras v Germans)
11. WW2 Naval:
Defending the Malay Barrier campaign.
Next: Turn 2 to be completed
COLLECTIONS
Numbers quoted are painted only.
2mm
Napoleonic: Total 3,000
Austrian
French
6mm
Napoleonic: Total 3,000
Austrian
French
6mm
Ancients: Total 2,647
Republican Roman
Carthaginian
Early Imperial Roman
Ancient British
Medieval: Total 1434
Wars of the Roses Lancastrian and Yorkist
ECW: Total 2932
Royalist
Parliamentarian
ECW: Total 2932
Royalist
Parliamentarian
Napoleonic: Total 16,068
French
British
Prussian
Hanoverian
Dutch/Belgian
Nassau
Brunswick
Spanish
Portuguese
Swiss
Colonial: Total 1515
British
Zulus
Swiss
Colonial: Total 1515
British
Zulus
ACW: Total 4,119
Union
Confederate
Pony Wars: Total 1192
Indians
US Cavalry
Civilians
WW2: Total 2204 + 468 vehicles
British 8th Army
Italian N.Africa
German Africa Korps
Italian N.Africa
German Africa Korps
British 44/45 NW Europe
US 44/45 NW Europe
German 44/45 NW Europe
Russian
Russian
1/600 Naval
ACW: Total 8 ships
Union
Confederate
WW2: Total 12 ships
British
German
1/1200 Naval
WW2: Total 80 ships approx (painted in 70's, all in need of drydocking!)
26 Repainted
British
German
Italian
1/2400 Naval
Napoleonic: Total 20 ships (can be any nationality)
1/3000 Naval
WW1: Total 15 ships
British
German
WW2: Total 235 ships
British
German
Italian
ACW: Total 8 ships
Union
Confederate
WW2: Total 12 ships
British
German
1/1200 Naval
WW2: Total 80 ships approx (painted in 70's, all in need of drydocking!)
26 Repainted
British
German
Italian
1/2400 Naval
Napoleonic: Total 20 ships (can be any nationality)
1/3000 Naval
WW1: Total 15 ships
British
German
WW2: Total 235 ships
British
German
Italian
USA
Japan
Dutch
1/600 WW2 Air
Total 286 Aircraft
British
USA
German
Italian
1/600 WW2 Air
Total 286 Aircraft
British
USA
German
Italian
I noted your reference to decals on WW2 aircraft but hadn't reallised you too had gone for 1/600. I've got masses but still have a few gaps to fill, mainly for North Africa. I went with Tumbling Dice but have heard very good things of Oddzial Osmy; I used to shop exclusively at Dom's Decals and he only stocked the TD. I also bought copies of every rules system I could find and a largish number of board games for WW2 air but sadly have yet to bring my planes to the table!
ReplyDeleteThe only rules I have seriously tried, other than the air element of General Quarters, is Bag The Hun by Toofatlardies. All my 1/600 aircraft are Tumbling Dice. Not thought to try Oddzial Osmy and likewise I have heard good things about their 3mm range.
DeleteAn interesting example of the economics of different scales, Jon. I just bought a kit of Brecourt Manor on ebay in 6mm for £9.99. The company also offer it at 15mm for £59.99, 20mm for £69.99 and 28mm for £149.99. The building looks very nice but I can't say more until it arrives. Apparently it's the first of a series of European buildings that medievalclans will offer. The second, Cafe Ingouf, has just been listed at £7.99.
ReplyDeleteI added a link. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wow1004-Brecourt-Manor-6mm-WWII-War-gaming-Buildings-WW111-FOW/362725883070?hash=item547425bcbe:g:nKgAAOSwlLBdVATq
ReplyDeleteDoes look good Kevin and thanks for the link. I have saved to seller for future reference and will be interested to hear your views on how good the buildings are when you see them in the 'flesh'. As you say the pricing demonstrates the advantage of 6mm!
DeleteJon, sorry to bother you but I'm looking to expand my range of 6mm buildings. I'm mainly interested in eighteenth century Europe and in WW2 in Italy, Normandy and East Front (I have buildings for North Africa). I've looked at Timecast, Leven, Battlescale and Total Battle; perhaps the best idea is to get a couple from each maker to compare?
ReplyDeleteI have buildings from all those manufacturers and difficult to single out any as being the best. I have more Total Battle buildings than any others and they are a joy to paint. My Grissburg buildings were a mix of Timecast, Total Battle and Leven. All my Mediterranean buildings are Total Battle as was my Waterloo game. Like you say, getting a couple of each is probably the best way to go but you won't go far wrong with any of them.
DeleteJon, thanks for the helpful advice.
ReplyDeleteJon, I don't know if other people have this problem but this morning I spent a frustrating time trying to glue the wheels onto Baccus 6mm artillery limber axles. I use Loctite gel superglue and it would not take. I have had similar problems in the past with, for example, Aventine 28mm figures which are very difficult to glue together. I just stumbled on a solution: paint a thin layer of Gorrila glue on the axle points, then cover with a blob of superglue gel and it gives an instant bond. Just thought I'd share!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the info Kevin. I use Loctite superglue in the small triangular tube which sticks ok. Occasionally you have to hold both parts together for a minute or for them to adhere. Looks like your way provides for an instant bonding which will be useful.
DeleteThe Aventine metal is notorious among 28mm gamers. Beautiful casts but very difficult to bond. I found that bicarb of soda plus superglue worked but it's messy and not practical for 6mm. The Gorilla glue method works (for me). It's an odd situation: I used Loctite gel on Baccus cannon wheels the other day and got an almost instant bond but the limbers would not behave until I applied the thin coat of Gorilla.
ReplyDeleteThe Gorilla glue is an interesting find and will bear that in mind for the future. Touch wood, I have had not problems yet but there is always a first time.
DeleteI realised what the problem was. On all my Baccus WSS cannons etc the axles are thick so that the fit into the wheels is pretty tight and the superglue gel bonded instantly. With the limbers the axles are thinner than the wheel holes so the gel had to harden to fix - as you pointed out this would occur naturally after a minute or so but with 56 wheels that's a pain. The thin coat of Gorilla seems to create a chemical reaction that hardens the gel much more quickly. By the way, I got those redoubts from Total Battle you mentioned and I am really very pleased with them. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteTotal Battle do produce some good stuff. Don't think I have had anything from them yet that I have regretted purchasing. Does look like you have come up with a good solution to the gluing problem. I must admit I have only done a few wheels at a time so not too much of a bind holding them for a minute or so.
DeleteListening to your conversation on 'Gods Own Scale' and was pleased to find someone else who doesn't like the look of 6mm units resting on top of villages or casualties being taken off only in whole units. Thought I was the only one! I play a lot of 6mm too so it's good to see the discussion here and information exchange.
ReplyDeleteI must admit I occasionally think that I am the only one who prefers small bases. It seems sacrilegious to have a great slab of base sat on top of a beautifully constructed piece of terrain. Good to hear I am not alone.
DeleteFound your site quite by accident, but I'm really glad I did! Thank you for your review of 2D6 Wargaming - I was completely unaware of them but now I find myself making a list of things to buy!
ReplyDeleteI too prefer small, thin bases for my 6mm models. However, it is becoming increasingly difficult for me to physically pick them up so I experimented with making the bases thicker. Can't stand them - back to the drawing board. And now I must rebase my Mk VIb stands!
I am pleased you found my blog useful Ed. Yes, you do sacrifice ease of handling with thinner bases but, as you found, I could not live with the thicker variety which I felt looked odd. The blog has been a little quiet of late but hopefully will be back on track soon.
DeleteAlas, those images of MkVIbs on thick bases may well outlive me since they feature heavily on the Operation Compass episode of LWTV.
ReplyDeleteYour tanks look great Ed, as does the game on the whole. I have not based any of my vehicles with obvious disadvantages, such as labelling and handling. Not so much of an issue on larger vehicles but those MkVIb's can be a pain at times. Reminds me to crack on with my own Op Compass campaign soon.
Delete